9. WALKING ADVENTURES: Lydford Gorge.

If you are going to go for a walk, at least make a little bit of adventure out of it. That's what I say. It doesn't have to mean you have to hike across Exmoor or go Coast to Coast like a Wainright, just that it's nice, sometimes, to walk in places where you can inject a little excitement into the Sunday stroll.

Lydford Gorge on Dartmoor is one of those places. It is the deepest gorge in the South West and is home to a spectacular waterfall, the 30 metre tall Whitelady Falls. The gorge is owned by the National Trust but it was once the home of a notorious family of outlaws, the Gubbins, who terrorised the locals and stole their sheep (that kind of information is invaluable to a parent who is trying to excite their kids at the prospect of a walk in the rain). Another snippet of valuable, need-to-know information is that there is a play park at the main entrance and a cafe at either end of the walk for urgent restocking of supplies. Releasing this information at strategic points can also provide a useful cajoling tool.
You can opt for a few different walks but my recommendation would be to start at the main entrance and follow the one way system (this might seem odd for a walk but at least it means you are always walking on your own) along the side of the gorge until you reach the Whitelady Falls. Admittedly this part of the walk is dull compared to the rest of it but it's a good build up to the really good stuff that comes later. Having said that, it is still a very beautiful slice of woodland!
Once you reach the far end of the gorge, some 2.5 km later, the excitement begins. Dropping down to the floor of the valley you then have to make your way back up it towards the Devil's Cauldron. The further you go, the better it gets as the valley sides steepen, the path narrows and the more precarious it becomes. This is when it starts to feel like an adventure, as you have to climb a little over slippery rocks and side step past drops to the raging torrent below. In places there is a hand rail to cling to, as well as bridges to cross and the walk does have its moments.
However the best moment comes at the end, when the valley sides rise up and seem to meet overhead. The path narrows and the moss covered rocks hang over you. It is here that the whole thing takes on an otherworldly feel. As you scamper along the path the light fades and the air becomes dank and heavy with spray. Below you the river tumbles and rages in a series of angry, churning pools. Finally the path heads down into the ravine towards the Devil's Cauldron, where the water gushes through a slice in the rock from one deep pool to another. A walk way takes you out and over the water so you can see down into the cauldron itself. It's just a wee bit scary.

Lydford Gorge is owned by the National Trust.
It is 7 miles south of the A30, half way between Okehampton and Tavistock.
It is open for most of the year but may close in the winter due to dangerous conditions.
Please check times before you go.
Costs: free to NT members, with Gift Aid, adults £6.50, child £3.30
Read more about it here.